Wagyu Ushitomi Ginza: A Night to Remember
Our most anticipated dinner in Japan took place at Wagyu Ushitomi Ginza—an intimate “Meat Kappo” where the spotlight shines on masterful preparation of premium wagyu. This was our first meal focused on Japan’s legendary beef, and we couldn’t have asked for a better introduction. Seated at the counter, we are up close and personal as Chef Katsuyoshi Nagai crafts a seasonal omakase menu before our eyes, dish by exquisite dish.
A Surprising Connection
What elevated the evening beyond expectation was the warm and easy communication with our hosts—an unexpected rarity in Japan. Sous-chef Toshiko Sugata, was born and raised in Harrah, Oklahoma, just two hours west of our hometown. She immediately recognized our Arkanese dialect and made us feel right at home. Her ability to translate the language and cultural nuance of our questions gave us rare insight into the food, ingredients, and culinary philosophy of the restaurant. Compared to previous dinners where language was a barrier, this felt like an open invitation into the kitchen itself.
We began with a glass of 21-year-old Hibiki whisky served over a single, hand-chipped rock. It’s a perfect prelude to the rich experience ahead. Soon enough, dinner would be accompanied by some outstanding Sake.
The Meat
As we savored the nuance of that rare whisky, our eyes fixated on the A5 Wagyu before us. Its perfect grade 12 marbling is so rich and intricate, it appears almost white, a vision of pure indulgence.
Our first course of Wagyu tartare was prepared as we watched. The richly marbled tenderloin, Nozaki-Gyu from Kagoshima required nothing but egg yolk and light seasoning with salt and pepper. Garnished with edible flowers and caviar it was both a sight to behold and a taste to savor.
Next came a delicate wagyu tail soup with seared tofu and nanohana—a spring vegetable similar to broccolini. Light, slightly bitter, and tender, the greens balanced the unctuous broth beautifully.
For the third course, we were handed the tools for a hands-on DIY wagyu tenderloin hand roll. Deep-fried, panko-crusted beef with warm sushi rice, sansho leaves, and black Japanese peppercorns delivered crunch, spice, and umami. All that remained was to wrap it in a crisp sheet of nori.
Shabu Shabu
This is a Japanese hot pot where thinly sliced meat and vegetables are cooked in a simmering broth. Chef cooked sirloin and tomato, plating the beef on top. We reveled again in the special taste of wagyu.
From there, Chef presented a charcoal-grilled wagyu rump cap. Recognizing that my wife is averse to raw beef, sous-chef Toshiko thoughtfully adjusted each course for her throughout the evening and she really appreciated this level of attention. The light char gave us a crust that was the perfect contrast to the silky interior. Served with orange, salt, wasabi, and a crisp cracker, it melted in the mouth. The rich and tender beef was tempered, by the wasabi and citrus that helped cut through the luxurious fat.
Hanging Tender, better known as Hanger Steak is seared and served medium-rare with a richly marbled texture. It’s plated on a bed of peppery daikon radish sprouts, sliced pink myoga ginger and leeks. A grated onion jam tops the beef lending a little sweetness.
We enjoyed a single fish course of Ainame (fat greenling) with green peas—subtly sweet and delicately cooked. This was a welcome pause, offering a quiet moment of contrast in a beef-dominated meal. The Ainame has a mild flavor that’s slightly sweet and subtly briny with firm, flaky white flesh. This was poached in lightly seasoned sauce with fresh green peas.
Main Course
Our main is a wagyu hot pot, this time cooked with shungiku (edible chrysanthemum greens). Their grassy, herbaceous flavor paired wonderfully with the buttery richness of the melting beef, creating a harmony of fat and freshness.
Sweet, crisp and briny Sakura shrimp, a seasonal delicacy were served alongside the wagyu atop savory rice and like popcorn, impossible to stop eating.
Last, but not least is a Japanese Onsen Tamago, or “hot spring egg”. It’s gently poached in water at low temperature to achieve a silky, custard-like white and a creamy, barely set yolk.
A Sweet Ending
Dessert was a simple yet meaningful offering – fresh strawberry and kiwi. In Japan, fruit is a luxury often given as a gift. These strawberries, sourced from Tochigi Prefecture—known as the “Japanese Strawberry Kingdom”—were bursting with sweetness and symbolism. It was a fitting end to a meal that balanced indulgence with refinement.
The Experience
Dinner at Wagyu Ushitomi Ginza is a culinary journey that combines the precision of Japanese kappo cuisine with the soul-satisfying richness of A5 wagyu. The service, open kitchen, and rare cultural connection with Sous-chef Toshiko turned what could have been an intimidating luxury dinner into a wonderful experience. Every dish told a story, and every bite reminded us why Japan’s reverence for food is as much about craft as it is about connection.