Following an exhilarating—but physically exhausting—nine miles of walking and sightseeing through Budapest, our reward was dinner at Babel. Founded by owner-manager Hebert Hlatky-Schlichter, the restaurant earned its first Michelin star in 2019 and, under the leadership of executive chef Kornel Kaszas, regained that distinction in 2023, a star it proudly retains today.
With just twelve tables, Babel offers an intimate setting where contemporary cuisine and art exist in perfect harmony. The dining room is adorned with works by internationally recognized Hungarian artists, creating an atmosphere that feels both sophisticated and deeply rooted in the country’s creative spirit. Appropriately, the name Babel was chosen to symbolize the team’s ambition to “reach for the stars” in pursuit of ever-greater gastronomic heights. After a day spent exploring one of Europe’s most captivating cities, there could have been no more fitting destination.
Our Tasting Menu at Babel
Our first bite is a study in contrasts. The crisp shell shatters immediately, giving way to the smoky soft eel. Then the salmon roe bursts with a pop releasing a clean briny liquid creating a balance of flavor.
This is a highly modern, dramatic re-interpretation of the classic Hungarian dish Rakott Krumpli. It is potato filled with sausage, egg, sour cream, Mangalica (wooly pig) bacon and wrapped in a gelatinized potato and dusted with fresh herbs. Very different, very technique-driven and very delicious.
Our final pre-appetizer is a foie gras tartlet. This rich, creamy duck liver delivered the umami flavor you expect.
Appetizers
Argentinian red shrimp ceviche is served in a cold, well seasoned tomato veloute. The acidity provided a contrast to prior courses and prepped us for the next course to come.
This is a reimagined and elevated version of a traditional Hungarian deviled egg dish. Hidden below are finely chopped vegetables often called a Russian salad with a creamy egg yolk resting on top. This is enveloped by a light and airy egg-white cream, crowned with a generous helping of sturgeon caviar. Each bite felt as if searching for a gastronomic treasure.
Kohlrabi is a staple vegetable here and traditionally used in rustic dishes or hearty stews. Chef Kornel and Babel completely deconstruct and rebuild it in their own image.
The kohlrabi is presented crunchy raw in paper-thin sheets, and with a frozen juice granita. This is topped with toasted puffed buckwheat, plated with kohlrabi veloute and drizzled with parsley oil. This dish bursts with fresh vegetable notes highlighted by the earthy and nutty buckwheat.
This is a deceptively simple dish, but one with depth of flavor that boggled my mind. The fish is poached agonizingly slow at a low temperature that yields an amazing, moist and silky smooth texture. The cauliflower sauce is carefully seasoned and fermented adding that unmistakable velvety, creamy and slightly funky flavor.
Mains
Guinea fowl arrived disguised as a pair of miniature drumsticks, their golden crust concealing succulent, flavored poultry. Served alongside a feather-light steamed bun, the course played with childhood memories of fried chicken. The crisp shell encompassed a rich, savory filling, while the pillowy bun (not shown) provided a gentle counterpoint. It is a whimsical yet technically accomplished expression of Babel’s ability to transform humble comforts into fine dining.
An unexpected supplemental course served as a transition between the guinea fowl and venison. A perfectly cooked King Oyster mushroom, prepared with the care typically afforded a fine cut of meat, rested in a glossy, intensely concentrated cremini mushroom jus. A rich golden cream added luxurious texture with aromatic herbs. Earthy, savory, and umami-driven, the dish demonstrated Babel’s remarkable ability to elevate even the humblest ingredient into something worthy of center stage.
Perfectly cooked venison arrived with a deep cranberry-infused jus and a richly earthy mushrooms. The backstrap is remarkably tender, with a vibrant ruby center. The meat’s natural sweetness and minerality is front and center. Cranberry provides acidic counterpoint to the venison’s earthy character, while mushrooms amplified its savory depth.
This is the bridge from mains to the desserts with heggi vadasz, a local pecorino style cream cheese. Hidden below is a compote of wild berries and the topping is whipped whey. A garnish of tiny rose petals completes the dish.
Desserts
